What is made in Surat
Surat has two big export trades that have almost nothing in common: synthetic textiles and diamonds. Buyers who send us to Surat almost always want the textile side checked.
| Trade | Official record | What buyers order |
|---|---|---|
| Man-made fabric | Surat Municipal Corporation: about 40% of India's man-made fabric output (undated). The Gujarat Industries Commissionerate lists Surat for synthetic and powerloom textiles (list last updated July 2019) | Polyester and viscose georgette, chiffon, crepe and satin; printed fabric; sarees and dress materials |
| Zari | Surat Zari Craft is a registered geographical indication (IP India, application 171); the Commissionerate lists a Jari-Printing cluster | Metallic and imitation zari thread, zari borders, embroidered laces |
| Diamonds and jewellery | Town of Export Excellence for gems and jewellery (DGFT, Foreign Trade Policy Appendix 1B) | Cut and polished diamonds, fine jewellery |
Surat's Town of Export Excellence listing is for gems and jewellery only. It is not a listed textile town, even though textiles are where most of its inspection work lies. Diamond grading is a job for a gemmological laboratory, not a product inspection.
What we check on Surat products
A Surat order usually passes through several units: a weaver, a dyeing or printing house, an embroidery unit and a finisher who folds and packs. Each product page below sets out the checks in full.
| Product | Main checks |
|---|---|
| Polyester and viscose fabrics | Width, weight (GSM), shade against the standard, bow and skew, 4-point fault grading, roll length and tickets |
| Synthetic and printed sarees | Length and blouse piece, print registration, colour rub test, stone and sequin security, fibre wording |
| Dress materials and embroidered fabrics | Set completeness, piece lengths, shade across the set, embroidery density, thread breaks, zari colour |
| Kurtas and ethnic wear | Measurements, seams, embellishment, labels, when sets are sold stitched |
| Finished and printed fabric | Side-centre-side shade, print faults, bow and skew on processed rolls |
For the wider picture, see man-made and technical textile inspection and handloom, silk and saree inspection. Fibre blend, colour fastness to washing and light, and the metal content of zari are lab tests; we pull and seal samples through lab testing coordination.
Common defects in Surat textiles
| Defect | Where it shows | Class |
|---|---|---|
| Pins, needles or staples left in folded sets | Dress materials and sarees pinned for display | Critical |
| Fibre label says silk on a polyester or viscose piece | Sarees and dress materials sold as "silk" | Major (a labelling breach) |
| Shade difference between pieces of one set or between rolls | Dress-material sets, roll lots from more than one dye batch | Major |
| Width or piece length below the specification | Fabric rolls, saree and dupatta lengths | Major |
| Dark colours bleed on a wet rub | Printed georgette, dark borders | Major |
| Stones and sequins falling off; darkened zari | Embellished sarees, laces, borders | Major |
| Slight print misregistration, loose threads, fold marks | Printed and embroidered pieces | Minor |
Timing and logistics
- Several units per order: because weaving, processing, embroidery and finishing are done at different places, a during-production inspection at the processing house catches shade and width problems before embroidery adds value.
- Fabric takes time: one inspector can only grade a limited length of fabric in a day. The share of rolls you want opened decides the man-days.
- Monsoon: from about July to September, damp storage tarnishes zari and spots fabric. The inspector checks that goods are dry and cartons are sound.
- Festivals: many units slow down or close around Diwali, in October or November.
- Loading: if goods from several units are consolidated, container loading supervision confirms the count and carton condition.
How to book an inspection in Surat
Send the product, the address of each unit and the ready date through the booking form for Surat. Include the shade standard, width and weight tolerances, set contents and your label artwork.
An inspection costs US$249 per man-day. Surat is outside our inspector base cities, so travel is charged at actual cost, quoted before you book; see pricing. Within 24 hours we confirm the inspector, notice and price. The report arrives within 24 hours of the inspection, with a verdict of Cleared to load, Hold or Not cleared.
Sources
- Surat Municipal Corporation: The City, Contribution (figures undated)
- DGFT: Appendix 1B, Towns of Export Excellence (Surat: gems and jewellery)
- IP India GI registry: Surat Zari Craft (application 171)
- Industries Commissionerate, Government of Gujarat: cluster development (last updated 12 Jul 2019)
- ASTM D5430: Standard test methods for visually inspecting and grading fabrics
Are you a quality inspector in Surat?
We work with vetted freelance inspectors near the factories we check. You take assignments in your own area, inspect to our checklist, and Clear To Load pays you, never the factory. Apply to inspect with us.