The main embroidery crafts and what they mean for inspection
| Craft | How it is worked | Where the risk is |
|---|---|---|
| Chikankari | White or tonal thread on fine cotton, voile or georgette; the design is printed on with a washable ink, embroidered by hand, then washed. Lucknow Chikan Craft is a registered GI (application 119) | Ink marks left after washing, shadow work showing knots through sheer fabric, density lower than the sample |
| Zardozi | Metallic wire, coiled dabka, beads and sequins couched onto fabric stretched on a frame. Lucknow Zardozi is a registered GI (application 236) | Weight, sharp wire ends, tarnish, pieces falling off |
| Phulkari | Darning stitch in floss silk or acrylic worked from the reverse in long floats. Phulkari is a registered GI for Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan (application 27) | Long floats that snag, floss colours bleeding |
| Kutch work | Dense thread work with small mirrors. Kutch Embroidery is a registered GI (application 103) | Mirrors loose in their stitch frame, sharp mirror edges |
| Machine embroidery | Computerised multi-head machines; sometimes sold as a hand-work look | Thread breaks, puckering, untrimmed jump stitches |
A GI name describes a product from a defined area made by a defined method. If your product name or tag uses one, ask the supplier how the work and its origin are documented.
What we check on embroidered garments
| Check | How it is checked | What fails |
|---|---|---|
| Design against sample | Motifs, layout and thread colours compared side by side with the approved garment | Missing motifs, simplified design, wrong thread shade |
| Density | Stitches or motifs counted in a marked area and compared with the sample | Visibly sparser work than approved |
| Hand or machine | Reverse side checked for stitch regularity, knots and thread changes | Machine work where hand work was ordered and described |
| Tracing marks | Face checked under daylight for blue or chalk lines | Visible design lines along the embroidery |
| Metal work, beads and mirrors | Rows pulled with fingers; surface stroked for sharp points | Pieces falling off, wire ends scratching skin |
| Puckering and frame marks | Garment laid flat and embroidered areas checked | Waves, holes or stains from the embroidery frame |
| Measurements after work | Garment measured against the size chart, focusing on embroidered panels | Panels pulled in by dense work, mismatched side seams |
| Cleanliness | Whole garment checked for handling marks | Dirt, sweat or oil stains around the work area |
Common embroidered garment defects and how they are classed
| Defect | Typical cause | Class |
|---|---|---|
| Needle or pin left in the work | Hand embroiderers working outside the factory without needle control | Critical |
| Sharp wire or broken bead edge on a children's garment | Wire not turned in, cheap glass beads | Critical |
| Tracing ink still visible | Insufficient washing | Major |
| Loose metal work or sequins | Couching stitches too far apart, thread not locked | Major |
| Stain on the embroidery | Handling during home-based work | Major |
| Embroidery thread bleeding | Unfixed dyed floss | Major |
| Small density variation | Different embroiderers on one order | Minor, within the agreed range |
Hand embroidery is often done in homes and small workshops, not in the exporter's own unit. Needle control and cleanliness are hardest to manage there, and a factory visit only shows the finishing site. A factory audit can record how outside work is handed out and returned.
Market rules for embroidered garments
- Care labels. Under the US Care Labeling Rule, the care instruction needs a reliable basis. Metal work and floss silk often mean dry clean only; a wash instruction that ruins the embroidery is a label fault.
- Fibre content. Base fabric and embroidery thread are stated in the US and EU; decorative fibres up to 7% of weight need not be counted under EU rules. See EU textile labelling.
- Children's garments. In the US, beads, sequins and metal trims on children's clothes are subject to CPSIA lead limits and small-parts risk. See CPSIA for children's products.
- Lead and restricted substances. Metal threads, beads and dyed floss can fall under REACH and California Prop 65. See California Prop 65.
Packing, transit and your purchase order
Embroidered areas are folded inward with tissue between layers so metal work does not snag the fabric next to it. Heavy zardozi pieces may need a board or box. The inspector checks fold position, tissue, pin-free packing and dry cartons; metal work tarnishes and white chikankari yellows in damp, airless packs.
- Approved sample for each design, with a density reference and photo of the reverse.
- Hand or machine work stated, and how hand work is described on tags.
- Thread type and colour fastness requirement, especially for floss and dark threads on light fabric.
- Bead, sequin and metal work attachment standard, and sharp-edge limits for children.
- Size chart measured after embroidery and washing.
- Care label wording agreed with the embroidery in mind.
Embroidered wall hangings and other décor pieces are covered under embroidered and beaded textile décor; embroidered bed and table linen under crochet lace and embroidered textiles.
Sources
- IP India GI registry: Lucknow Chikan Craft (application 119)
- IP India GI registry: Lucknow Zardozi (application 236)
- IP India GI registry: Kutch Embroidery (application 103)
- IP India GI registry: Phulkari (application 27)
- EPCH: Exports of handicrafts by product group (DGCI&S)
- FTC: Threading your way through the labeling requirements under the Textile and Wool Acts