How embroidered and beaded décor is made
This page covers decorative textiles: wall hangings and tapestries, torans (door hangings), bunting, embroidered panels, beaded and sequinned ornaments, and patchwork pieces. Bed linen, cushions and table linen are home textiles with their own checks.
EPCH reports exports of ₹4,289.20 crore for its "embroidered and crocheted goods" group in FY2025-26, from DGCI&S data. The work is spread across many states. Barmer and Jaipur in Rajasthan are Towns of Export Excellence for handicrafts; the listings cover handicrafts in general and do not name textiles.
Most of the work is done by hand, often by home-based artisans who receive cut pieces from an exporter or contractor:
- Tracing. The design is printed or traced onto the base cloth, often with a washable blue or chalk mark that should disappear after washing.
- Embroidery. Stitched by hand in a frame, or with an aari hook for fine chain stitch. Density and colour follow a sample, but each artisan's hand differs.
- Appliqué and patchwork. Cut shapes are stitched onto the base. Raw edges must be turned under or covered, or they fray. Patchwork sometimes uses recycled fabric.
- Beads, sequins and mirrors. Glass beads, sequins and small shisha mirrors are stitched on. Mirrors are held by a ring of thread worked around them.
Because pieces come back from many homes, the exporter's checking, washing and pressing at the end decides much of the final quality.
What we check on embroidered and beaded décor
| Check | How it is checked | What fails |
|---|---|---|
| Bead and sequin security | Pull by hand on beads, sequins and tassels across each sampled piece; back checked for long loose stitches | Beads that come off, long floats on the back that snag, single-stitch fixing on heavy beads |
| Mirrors | Each mirror's thread ring checked; fingertip over the edge | Loose or cracked mirrors, sharp glass edges showing |
| Appliqué edges | Edges looked at closely and rubbed lightly | Raw edges fraying, shapes lifting at corners |
| Marks and stains | Front and back in daylight | Visible tracing lines, oil or tea stains, fingermarks |
| Colour fastness | Damp white cloth rubbed on dark threads and dyed areas | Colour transfers to the cloth or bleeds into a light base |
| Design and size | Against the approved sample and specification; size measured | Missing motifs, wrong colours, low stitch density, size out of tolerance |
| Needles and metal | Hand-held metal detector over finished pieces, where the buyer requires it | Broken needles or pins left in the goods |
| Hanging parts | Rod pockets, loops and cords pulled by hand with the piece's own weight in mind | Loops that tear, pockets too small for the rod |
| Labels | Fibre content, origin and care label read against the order | Missing or wrong fibre names, no origin mark |
Common embroidered, beaded and appliqué textile décor defects and how they are classed
| Defect | Typical class |
|---|---|
| Needle or pin left in the goods | Critical |
| Sharp mirror or bead edge exposed | Critical |
| Beads or sequins coming off under light pull | Major |
| Colour bleeding, visible stain | Major |
| Fraying appliqué, missing motif | Major |
| Wrong or missing fibre label | Major |
| Faint tracing line, small stitch irregularity | Minor |
Hand work varies. Agree with the supplier which differences are normal, such as stitch length and slight colour change between thread lots, and which are defects.
Market rules that apply
- EU textile labelling. Regulation 1007/2011 needs a fibre composition label on textile products and on products that are at least 80% textile fibre by weight. A heavily beaded piece can fall below 80%, so weigh it. Bone, horn or leather parts need the phrase "Contains non-textile parts of animal origin". See EU textile labelling.
- Dyes and chemicals. REACH restricts certain azo dyes and, under entry 72, listed carcinogenic substances in textiles. Entry 72 does not cover non-textile decorations such as beads. See azo dyes and restricted substances.
- Canada. Consumer textile articles need fibre and dealer information, but some articles are exempt. Check how your item is classed; see Canada textile labelling.
- Beads and metal parts. Glass beads and metal trims can contain lead. In California, ask your lab whether a Prop 65 warning is needed.
- Children. Soft hanging décor for a nursery can be treated as a toy or children's product, which brings in EN 71 or ASTM F963 and small-parts rules for beads.
Packing, transit and loading risks
- Crushed beads and mirrors. Folding across a beaded area cracks glass and bends sequins. Roll or fold with tissue between layers, away from the beadwork.
- Mould. Cotton that was washed or pressed and packed damp grows mould in a sealed bag. Goods must be dry, with desiccant for sea freight.
- Abrasion. Beads rub on neighbouring pieces and snag threads. Each piece needs its own bag.
- Creases. Deep fold lines in silk and viscose are hard to remove. Agree folding size and interleaving.
What to put in your purchase order
- Base fabric and threads with fibre content, for the label.
- Bead, sequin and mirror type; how they are fixed (for example, beads stitched individually or in groups, with a knot every few beads).
- No raw edges on appliqué; no visible tracing marks after finishing.
- Colour-fastness requirement and whether pieces are washed before packing.
- Needle control at the factory and metal detection if you require it.
- Labels for each market, folding size, interleaving and individual bags.
Festive ornaments in fabric and beads? See Christmas and festive decorations. For hanging pieces, see wall décor and wall art. Book an inspection.