How table linen is made
Table linen is simple to sew and hard to get exactly right, because it lies flat on a table where every crooked hem and uneven corner shows. Tablecloths are cut from wide fabric or, for large sizes, from two widths joined with a seam. Corners are folded and mitred, or turned in a plain double hem. Round and oval cloths are cut from a template and finished with a narrow hem or bias binding. Napkins are cut in bulk from the same roll, hemmed, and packed in sets of four, six or twelve.
Handloom table linen often has woven borders, stripes or checks, and these must sit square with the hems. Damask and jacquard cloths show the pattern in the weave, so placement on the table matters. Printed and block-printed cloths add colour fastness risk, and wipe-clean cloths are coated with acrylic, PVC or a stain-repellent finish.
Karur in Tamil Nadu is a Town of Export Excellence for handlooms, and IBEF lists table linen among the handloom made-ups produced there for export.
What we check on table linen
| Check | How it is checked | What fails |
|---|---|---|
| Size and shape | Rectangles measured on all four sides and both diagonals; rounds on two diameters at right angles; ovals on length and width | Out of square, rounds that are oval, sizes outside tolerance |
| Mitred corners | Each corner checked for a closed, flat, 45-degree join | Open mitres, bulky or twisted corners |
| Hems | Hem width measured; hem laid along a straight edge | Wavy hems, hem width varying along a side |
| Joining seam on wide cloths | Seam position and pattern match across the join | Seam off-centre, pattern broken at the join |
| Border alignment | Woven or printed border measured from the hem at several points | Border drifting closer to the edge, crooked checks and stripes |
| Napkin sets | All napkins in a set measured and compared in a light box | One napkin a different size or shade, set count short |
| Placemats and runners | Laid flat; stiffness and edges; reversible mats checked both sides | Curling, wavy edges, fusing bubbles in stiffened mats |
| Colour | Wet rub with white cloth on dark-on-light patterns; quick wash where agreed | Red or indigo bleeding into white ground |
| Coated cloths | Coating checked for even cover, pinholes and cracking at folds; odour | Bare patches, coating peeling at the hem, strong solvent smell |
Common table linen defects and how they are classed
| Defect | Typical cause | Class |
|---|---|---|
| Needle or pin left in folded cloths | Pins used to hold folds for pressing | Critical |
| Colour bleeding on a wash | Dye not fixed or not washed off after printing | Major |
| Tablecloth out of square or undersize | Fabric cut off-grain, shrinkage in finishing | Major |
| Napkin set with mixed shades | Napkins from two rolls mixed | Major |
| Open or bulky mitres | Rushed corner folding | Major or minor by visibility |
| Small slub or float in a handloom weave | Hand weaving | Minor, within the approved sample |
Market rules for table linen
- PFHxA in the EU. Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/2462 added entry 79 to REACH Annex XVII. From 10 October 2027, textiles for the general public other than clothing, including table linen, may not be placed on the market with 25 ppb or more of PFHxA and its salts, or 1,000 ppb or more of PFHxA-related substances. Goods placed on the market before that date are exempt. Stain-repellent and water-repellent finishes are where these substances appear, so ask the finisher what chemistry was used and test before the deadline. See EU REACH.
- PVC-coated cloths. Plasticised PVC must meet the REACH phthalate limits in the EU. A lab tests it.
- Fibre labels. In the EU, Regulation 1007/2011 applies. Table mats made of several components with a surface of no more than 500 cm² do not need a label, and table mats may use an inclusive label for a set. See EU textile labelling. In the US, the Textile Act label covers fibre, origin and the dealer.
- Linen claims. "Linen" is a fibre name and means flax. A cotton-linen blend must be labelled with both fibres and their percentages. A lab confirms fibre content.
- Dyes. Azo dyes and other restricted substances: see azo dyes and restricted substances.
Packing, transit and your purchase order
Tablecloths are pressed, folded to a set size and banded or bagged. Sharp fold creases in linen are hard to remove, and a fold through a coated cloth can crack the coating, so coated cloths are often rolled. Napkin sets are tied or banded; the inspector checks the set count inside each band and that bands do not leave marks. Pins and clips used during pressing must be removed and counted.
- Shape and finished sizes with tolerances; drop if you sell by table size.
- Corner type (mitred or plain) and hem width.
- Border and pattern placement rules, and seam position on joined cloths.
- Napkin set size and the rule that one set comes from one roll.
- Coating or finish, with the chemistry declared and test reports for each market.
- Colour-fastness requirement, labels, fold size and pack type.
For tea towels and aprons, see kitchen linen. For lace and cutwork tablecloths, see crochet lace and embroidered textiles.
Sources
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/2462 (PFHxA, REACH entry 79)
- Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 on textile fibre names and labelling (Annexes V and VI)
- DGFT: Appendix 1B, Towns of Export Excellence
- IBEF: Handloom industry and exports
- FTC: Threading your way through the labeling requirements under the Textile and Wool Acts