How juttis and mojaris are made
Juttis and mojaris are closed, slip-on shoes with a flat leather sole and a pointed or curled toe. "Mojari Craft of Jodhpur (Rajasthan)" is a registered geographical indication (application 735, classes 18 and 25), published in GI Journal 212 in November 2025, with its registration certificate dated 28 March 2026. The applicants were the Jodhpur Handicrafts Exporters Association and Gram Vikas Seva Sansthan.
Making a pair involves several separate crafts:
- Sole. A thick leather sole, often in two layers, cut to a pattern. Traditional pairs are often made straight, with little difference between left and right, and shape to the foot with wear.
- Upper. Leather, velvet, silk or cotton, cut and then embroidered, usually before it is joined to the sole. Embroidery may be thread, zari (metallic thread), beads, sequins, small mirrors or appliqué.
- Joining. The upper is stitched to the sole by hand around the edge, with the stitches running through the sole's outer edge.
- Lining and padding. Export pairs often add a leather or textile lining and a foam or felt pad under the foot, which traditional pairs lacked.
The embroidery is frequently done in homes or small units outside the main workshop, so the same order can carry work from many hands.
What we check on juttis and mojaris
| Check | How it is checked | What fails |
|---|---|---|
| Embellishment security | Beads, sequins and mirrors pulled firmly with fingers or tweezers; thread ends on the inside checked for knots | Beads or mirrors coming away, loose loops, unknotted threads |
| Embroidery match | Both shoes compared with each other and with the approved sample: pattern, colours, density and placement | Different patterns or colours in a pair; motif off-centre |
| Sole stitching | Stitch line around the sole checked for even spacing and tension; upper pulled gently away from the sole | Gaps, broken stitches, upper lifting from the sole |
| Size and shape | Sole length measured on both shoes; toe curl and heel height compared | Size outside tolerance; toe curls of different heights |
| Dye bleed | Damp white cloth rubbed on dyed leather, velvet and lining | Colour transferring to the cloth |
| Zari and metal parts | Metallic thread and mirror frames checked for tarnish and sharp edges | Black or green tarnish, sharp mirror edges |
| Inside the shoe | Hand run over the padding and heel; glue and lining checked | Lumps, exposed stitching knots under the foot, glue stains |
| Cleanliness | Uppers checked for pencil marks, glue and handling stains | Visible marks on light fabric |
Common jutti and mojari defects and how they are classed
| Defect | Typical cause | Class |
|---|---|---|
| Beads or small parts detaching on a children's pair | Single-pass stitching, no knot behind each bead | Critical |
| Mould on leather or padding | Damp storage, packing in sealed bags | Critical or major, by extent |
| Embroidery pattern different in a pair | Uppers from different embroiderers paired at packing | Major |
| Upper lifting from the sole | Loose or missed hand stitches | Major |
| Dye bleeding from velvet or leather | Unfixed dyes | Major |
| Zari tarnished | Low-grade metallic thread, humidity | Major or minor, by extent |
| Pencil or chalk marks on the upper | Pattern marks not cleaned | Minor |
| Slight difference in toe curl | Hand shaping | Minor |
Your defect list decides the final class.
Market rules for juttis and mojaris
- Material label (EU and UK). Under Directive 94/11/EC, an embroidered velvet upper is labelled textile, not leather, even if the sole is leather. A leather upper covered in embroidery is still a leather upper. The label shows the main material of the upper, the lining and insole, and the outer sole; the UK's 1995 regulations follow the same scheme.
- Chromium VI and azo dyes (EU). Leather linings and soles touch the foot. The 3 mg/kg chromium VI limit applies to leather parts, and dyed leather and textiles must not release listed azo amines. See chromium VI in leather and azo dyes.
- Children's pairs (US). Shoes for children 12 and under are children's products under the CPSIA: lead limits apply to accessible parts, including beads, sequins and metallic trims, and a Children's Product Certificate is needed. See CPSIA.
- Origin and GI name. In India, only goods from the registered area may use a registered GI name. If you sell mojaris as made in Jodhpur, keep invoices that show the maker. See country of origin labelling.
Packing, transit and your purchase order
Embroidered uppers crush and beads scratch neighbouring pairs, so each pair needs its own box or a cloth bag with tissue inside the toe. Curled toes should be supported so they do not flatten. Velvet marks under pressure, so cartons must not be overfilled. As with other leather footwear, the inspector checks for damp leather and musty smells before packing is sealed.
Put these in your purchase order:
- Upper material and colour; sole leather and thickness; lining and padding.
- Embroidery artwork, thread and zari colours, bead and mirror count per shoe.
- Whether pairs are made straight or with left and right shapes.
- Size chart with sole length per size; sizes in EU, UK or US numbering.
- Pull requirement for embellishments, stricter for children's pairs.
- Material label, origin marking, box or bag and carton marking.
Our base is in Jodhpur, so there is no travel fee for inspections there; see pricing and inspection in Jodhpur. Many mojari buyers also buy ethnic wear from the same region. Book an inspection in Jodhpur.